Coins Collection

Coins have been always been a part of our country’s history. Prominent people are featured on them. A change of government is sometimes accompanied by a change of currency. The look and feel of these coins reflects the advancements in technology as scientists find more complex metal combinations.

Coins’ being of historical value is one of the many factors why people collect them. Beauty and variety also contribute to the collector’s growing numbers.

To be a collector, you must be aware of how to ascertain the worth of your coins. Who knows, you might just be holding on to a very rare artifact, or one that would cost millions on an auction or bidding.

First step in being a coin collector is to look up literature. You need to be in the know of what coins are available out there, where to get them and how to get them. This is extremely valuable to one who’d see the coins as a form of investment.

You also need to determine four things before you take a coin to your collection. You need to identify them, have them authenticated and examine them for damage. This would be vital points to consider in collection coins.

To identify them, you need to look at your coins very thoroughly and note the shape, the colors, and the writings. You also need to verify which country issued that coin. If there is no denomination on the face of the coins, it’s just a token or probably a medal.

Authentic coins should be treasured and prized. They’re hard to find, especially if they are rare, limited issues. A lot of fakes and counterfeit coins are available in the market, so beware!

The value of your coin will depend upon its grade. Coin catalogs usually have their own, specific grading guidelines but here’s a general list of them.

* Mint State Perfect Uncirculated (MS-70) is an uncirculated coin. It should show no apparent damage and be in top shape. It is considered to be the best quality of coin possible.

* Uncirculated (MS-60) is another uncirculated coin having a few scratches on contact marks and that have lost some of its sheen.

* About Uncirculated (AU-50) is a coin which has evidence of light wear on most parts but still retains at least half of its original sheen.

* Extremely Fine (EF-40) is coin wherein the coin design is lightly worn off but the features can be still distinguished and are still quite sharp.

* Very Fine (VF-20) is another coin wherein some of fine details like hair or eyebrows are mostly worn off. There is evidence of modest wear on some points of the design but all major parts are still clearly etched.

* Very Good (VG-8) is a coin wherein even though the rim is still clearly visible, the design is almost worn off and only few details of it are clear.

* Good (G-4) are coins that are heavily worn but the design and the legend are still visible. Much of the details are gone.

* About Good (AG-3) are coins that are very heavily worn that some of the lettering and the original design are not discernible anymore.

Damaged coins come across frequently in the course of a collector’s quest. Most collectors steer off coins that have undergone cleaning or re-polishing. Corroded, scratched and drilled into coins are also a big turn off. Although it’s sometimes hard to find one, it’s better to find an untampered specimen.

The question on most beginners’ minds is this: How much do I get paid for a particular coin. The answer is: It varies everywhere. It depends on the qualities of the coin as well as the guide the buyer is using. For a general idea of pricing, here’s a quick list.

1. U.S. wheat cents (1958 and earlier) that were in circulation goes for a few cents to 3 dollars each.

2. 1943 “steel pennies are very uncommon and of high value 1943 cents set on a normal bronze planchet. They are tested to determine if it attracts magnets and if so, it is plated using copper. They are sold for 5 to 50 cents if circulated, and up to a dollar or two if not in circulation.

3. Silver dimes, quarter and half dollars from 1964 or earlier are composed of almost 90% silver. So their amount depends on their silver content.

4. Silver dollars from 1935 and up are collector favorites and can be usually be sold for more than their value in silver . The less common the date, the higher the pricing goes.

5. Susan B. Anthony dollars are worth about one dollar.

6. Bicentennial quarters, half and dollars are usually worth what’s on their face value.

7. Coins in commemoration of the wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana are spotted to cost from $5 to $30.

8. A coin with two heads, tails or those that have different designs of two coins have no value to collectors because they are coins that have been change to introduce a novelty item.

There are also the kinds of coins that are made by mistake. These are called ‘mules’ and are often produced because of an error in pairing different dies. Expect rare coins like these to cost a little higher than most.

So with these things in mind, have fun in making your own collection grow. Who knows what part of history you’ll discover by finding rare specimens.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://collecting.leisure-webzone.com where you can learn more about coins and other antiques and collectibles.

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Many people find collecting coins a fascinating and exciting hobby. But if you’re going to start a coin collection, it’s a good idea to have some idea how much coins are worth. If you know the value of a coin, then it’s easier to find good deals. You can also ensure you don’t get cheated into paying far too high a price for a low value coin.

Coin collecting is no different to most other marketplaces - it’s all about supply and demand. If there’s lots of one particular coin available, then chances are it’s not going to be worth much. But if there are only a few good specimens of that type, then its value will be high. Which is why you great strange anomalies in coin collecting, such as 2,000-year-old Roman coin that’s worth under $100, whereas a 1943 copper penny is worth over $200,000. Many thousands of the Roman coins were minted and have since been found, but there were only 40 copper pennies made in 1943, thanks to the war.

It can happen, too, that different coins may have similar numbers in circulation, but one will be worth a lot more than the other. That’s because some coins have more appeal for collectors, which drives up their value. Some coins are popular simply because they’re really well designed and nice to look at, others because they form part of a popular set, and others simply because they have some historical significance.

The metal used to mint a coin is also important in determining value. Some contain precious metals such as gold bullion or platinum. Generally these coins have less volatile values because to some extent the material used to mint them determines their value. A gold bullion coin will usually be worth more than its minted weight, as an example, but it’s never going t be worth less.

The final factor in determining a coin’s value is grade or classification. If a coin has undergone a lot of wear and tear, then its value will drop. That’s why uncirculated coins are very popular with collectors and are worth more than coins that have been in general circulation. Uncirculated coins have usually been kept in almost perfect condition, and so their value is high as a result. It’s possible for a coin in flawless condition to be worth hundreds of times more than a low-grade version of the same coin.

Now that you have an understanding of the basic factors that determine a coin’s value, you will be better able to judge which coins are likely to have some value and which are worthwhile. You need to start by determining a coin’s grade or classification. There are published guidelines you can use as a checklist to determine the coin’s grade. Then check the value of the coin in a guide such as “The Standard Catalog of World Coins”. You should be able to find a copy in your local library. If you really want an accurate idea of the value of a coin, take it to a coin dealer, and get an accurate evaluation.

If you want to read more about coin collecting, click over to Hayley’s site at http://www.coinsforyou.com

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One day back in 1985, I received an unexpected phone call at my office from a man named Gordon Carl (not his real name - but whose real name I’ll never forget). The thing that initially struck me the most about the polished Mr. Carl was his heavy New York accent, like something you might hear in a gangster movie. The purpose of his call: to offer me a “great deal” in rare coins. As a result of that conversation, I agreed to purchase five 1943 Walking Liberty half dollars Mr. Carl described as MS-65 specimens. Furthermore, he guaranteed that his firm would buy the coins back from me at any time of my choosing, paying 5% less than the “Grey Sheet” bid price. As an unmarried “yuppie” (now there’s a word you don’t hear much anymore), I calculated that I could afford the $1375 required to make the purchase. Perhaps more than anything, greed clouded my judgment, and like a fool, I trusted Mr. Carl and dropped a check in the mail the next day.

Later in 1985, Mr. Carl’s company changed names. Rather than interpreting this as a flashing red warning signal, I eagerly sought to add more coins to my portfolio. Being a gregarious sort of fellow, I attempted to establish a friendly rapport with Mr. Carl and his associates. Looking back after all these years, what has irritated me perhaps more than anything is how this shyster must have smirked every time he heard my voice, for what a gullible, willing dupe I was.

In 1989, I decided it was time to cash in my coins, so I called Mr. Carl. Not surprisingly, the company was operating under yet another name. I couldn’t get through to Mr. Carl, but ended up talking to his brother, Maurice, with whom I had never spoken. I informed him that I wanted to liquidate my Walking Liberty half dollars in accordance with the buy-back policy under which I had purchased them. Much to my disgust, he coldly declined, indicating his organization was not affiliated with those earlier companies, and was under no obligation whatsoever. In fact, he insinuated that he had never even heard of these outfits before, despite the fact that his brother, Gordon, factored prominently in these businesses. At that moment, the fog was finally lifted from my eyes: I had been scammed! Not knowing what else to do, I politely said goodbye, and hung up. I sat there, staring at the phone for what seemed like an eternity, in stunned disbelief.

Several days later, I took my 1943 Walkers to a local coin dealer, the first step in submitting them to a third party grading service. I didn’t expect them to grade out as MS-65, but if they came back as MS-60 or MS-63, I could at least begin there to cut my losses. The dealer studied a couple of the coins closely under magnification, and then sadly declared the coins were damaged due to improper cleaning. He advised me not to have them professionally graded, because the cost of grading probably exceeded the value of the coins. With few options left, I put the tainted Walkers in storage, vowing never to repeat this experience.

Let’s now flash forward to the present time. Normally, I don’t like antagonizing myself, so it was with some reluctance that I fired up the computer to play the game “What If?” That is, what if I had spent my $1375 with a reputable dealer in 1985 to purchase Walking Liberty half dollars? What kind of value increases would I be enjoying today had I been smarter back then? To answer this question, I first retrieved the historic value trend tables I researched in late 2005 for Walking Liberty half dollars. For each date, mintmark, and condition, I noted their values in 1985, and placed them next to their corresponding values in 2005, for a “before and after” comparison. In all, there were about 450 such comparisons. Next, I calculated an annual compounded percentage return rate for each data pair, and sorted them from highest to lowest. I then listed the top 20 for closer examination:

Date………..Condition..1985 Value..2005 Value..Annual ROR

1917-D Obv.MS-65…$3000..$27500…11.13%
1921-S…F-12…..$30.00…..$250…10.62%
1919-D…MS-65…$15000…..$115000…..10.19%
1917-S Obv.MS-65…$5250…..$35000..9.45%
1918-S…MS-65…$3000…..$17500..8.76%
1916-S…VG-8….$30.00…$150…7.97%
1917-S Rev. MS-65…$3500..$17500..7.97%
1921-S…VF-20…$200….$1000….7.97%
1921-S…XF-40….$1000….$5000…7.97%
1921-S…MS-65….$22500..$110000….7.85%
1918-D…F-12..$8.50..$40.00….7.65%
1918-D…MS-65…$5500….$25000….7.48%
1921-S…VG-8….$17.50…$75.00….7.18%
1921-D…MS-65…$6500….$27500….7.11%
1916-D…VG-8….$12.50…$50.00….6.82%
1938-D…F-12..$25.00….$100….6.82%
1938-D…VG-8….$20.00…$80.00….6.82%
1920-S…MS-65…$3750..$15000..6.82%
1917-D Rev.VF-20…$45.00…$175….6.68%
1938-D…VF-20…$32.50…$125….6.62%

The Walker with the best return since 1985 is the 1917-D (MM on Obverse) in MS-65 condition. At $3000, it was well beyond the $1375 available to me to spend on numismatics in 1985, as were all nine MS-65 coins appearing on the above Top 20 list. However, the remainder of the Top 20 represented coins in circulated grades, and all were within my price range. Had I directed my hard-earned cash toward the purchase of a legitimate example of each of these coins, I would have spent $1421, just barely above what I forked over to Mr. Carl. Today, those same Walking Liberty halves are cumulatively worth more than $7000. In pure financial terms, this increase computes to an annual compounded return rate of nearly 8.00%. If only I had known then

Take note that all 11 of the Walkers that I wish I had added to my collection in 1985 are recognized as key and semi-key dates in the Walking Liberty half dollar series. The fact that they are for well-circulated specimens (typically not the object of affection for promoters and speculators) suggests that what has propelled these coins to ever-increasing heights over the years is fueled by consistent collector demand. We can expect to see similar patterns in the future. If I were to conduct this same study in the year 2025, comparing retail values then to what they were in the year 2005, the Top 20 would probably strongly resemble the Top 20 in 2005.

What became of the 1943 Walking Liberty half dollars Mr. Carl suckered me into buying? Well, I still have them, squirreled away in a bank deposit box. I haven’t even looked at them in a decade or so. As I was writing the final words of this article, it finally dawned on me to ask one more question: how would my investment have performed had these been bona-fide MS-65 specimens? Taking the same body of data used to derive the Top 20 above, I started thumbing down the list going down, down, and down some more. Finally, I came across the 1943 in MS-65 condition, on line 419. The annual rate of return of this coin since 1985 is a dismal -2.13%. That’s a NEGATIVE 2.13%. Ironically, even had Mr. Carl been an honest businessman, it still would have been a lousy investment for me.

There are two lessons to be learned here: (1) If interested in seeing your coins increase substantially in value in the years ahead, purchase coins that have already demonstrated a long record of consistent price advancements, which usually are the key and semi-key dates for a given series, and (2) Deal only with reputable people.

So what ever happened to the slimy Mr. Carl and his band of thieves? Well, perhaps there is some justice in this world, after all. In late 1989, about the time I discovered I was being victimized, the United States Postal Inspection Service began an undercover sting operation of the company. Apparently, I wasn’t the only unhappy customer, but my losses were minimal compared to the sums bilked out of others. In February, 1991, postal agents stormed the “boiler room” outfit, executing a federal search warrant based on a complaint involving the alleged fraudulent selling of coins through the mail. Mr. Carl and others were arrested and led away in handcuffs.

Postal authorities publicized that anyone with grievances against the company was encouraged to contact them, to help bolster their case against the defendants. Since I kept meticulous records, I had no trouble assembling incriminating documents and forwarded everything to the Inspector’s office, tied together by my personal story. I never heard exactly how the case was resolved, but it seems almost certain these crooked telemarketers got what they deserved. As for me, I won a small measure of satisfaction, knowing that I provided evidence to help expose them. Now, if I could just figure out what to do with those defiled 1943 Walkers…

Daniel J. Goevert is the webmaster of US Coin Values
Advisor, specializing in coin value trends and listing bullish US coins. The site also includes detailed coin collecting advice and an illustrated history of the US Mint.

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